149 terms

PatternForge glossary

Sewing and digital-pattern language in plain English. Regional aliases are included where they help you recognize the same idea in another pattern or book.

149 terms

A

Alteration: Also: pattern alteration; A deliberate pattern change for fit, preference, or design; it is different from creating a graded size range.; Read: A safe pattern development workflow →
Anchor point: Also: anchor; A point that fixes or shapes part of a digital line or curve.; Read: Digital geometry and path health →
Anthropometry: The systematic study and measurement of human body size and shape.
Apex: Also: body apex; The fullest point of a body area that shaping, such as a dart, is directed toward.; Read: Add and check darts →
Armhole: Also: armscye; The garment opening for the arm and the pattern edge that may receive a sleeve.; Read: Pattern anatomy and required information →
Armscye: Also: armhole; A patternmaking name for the armhole seam edge.; Read: Pattern anatomy and required information →
Asymmetrical pattern: Also: asymmetric pattern; A pattern whose left and right sides are intentionally different and usually need separate orientation labels.; Read: Pattern anatomy and required information →

B

Balance: How a garment settles around the body without one area pulling another out of place.
Balance line: A marked reference used to judge whether a toile or garment hangs level and in the intended direction.
Balance mark: Also: match mark; A notch or other reference showing where two construction locations should meet.; Read: Add notches and balance marks →
Base size: Also: master size; The approved starting size from which a planned size range is graded.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Bias: Also: true bias; A diagonal fabric direction that usually has more give than straight grain.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Blend: To redraw a line between points so the transition is smooth and intentional.; Read: Digital geometry and path health →
Block: Also: basic block, sloper; A tested foundation pattern used to develop other patterns; exact usage varies by region and system.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Bodice: The garment or pattern section for the torso, commonly extending from the shoulder or neckline toward the waist or hip.
Body measurement: A measurement taken on a person or body form, using defined landmarks and a consistent method.
Bowing: Fabric distortion in which crosswise yarns curve instead of running straight across the width.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Break point: The location where a collar or lapel begins to turn away from the body.
Bust point: The landmark at the fullest part of the bust, often used as the apex for bodice shaping.; Read: Add and check darts →

C

Calibration: Also: set true size, scale calibration; Setting and checking the relationship between an image and real-world size.; Read: Set and check true size →
Cap ease: An intentional length difference between a sleeve cap and its armhole in some sleeve systems.; Read: Define and match seams →
Cap height: The vertical height of a sleeve head from the biceps line to its highest point.
Cardinal point: An important grading location, such as a corner or seam intersection, that helps control size change.
Center back (CB): Also: CB, centre back; The main vertical reference at the back center of a garment or pattern.; Read: Pattern anatomy and required information →
Center front (CF): Also: CF, centre front; The main vertical reference at the front center of a garment or pattern.; Read: Pattern anatomy and required information →
Circle skirt: A flared skirt developed from part or all of a circle.
Closed path: Also: closed outline; A digital outline whose final segment connects back to its starting point.; Read: Digital geometry and path health →
Collar fall: The visible part of a collar that extends away from its neckline seam or stand.
Collar stand: The collar section that rises from the neckline and supports the outer collar.
Contour darting: Close-fitting shaping that follows a curved body area, often through darts above and below its fullest point.; Read: Add and check darts →
Control point: Also: curve handle; A digital point or handle used to influence the direction and shape of a curve.; Read: Digital geometry and path health →
Crossgrain: Also: crosswise grain, weft direction; The fabric direction across the width, generally perpendicular to lengthwise grain in woven cloth.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Crotch depth: A vertical body or pattern measurement from waist level to crotch or seated level, depending on the stated method.
Crotch extension: The horizontal part of a trouser pattern that projects beyond the body line to form the crotch shape.
Cut line: Also: cutting line; The boundary along which the fabric is cut.; Read: Choose sewing line or cutting line →
Cut on fold: Also: place on fold, cut-on-fold; An instruction to place a pattern edge on folded fabric so cutting creates a mirrored whole piece without that seam.; Read: Mark a true cut-on-fold piece →

D

Dart: A stitched wedge that removes flat width so fabric can shape around the body.; Read: Add and check darts →
Dart center: Also: dart centre; The line from the middle of a dart's intake toward its point, often used as the fold reference.; Read: Add and check darts →
Dart intake: The amount of material taken out between the two dart legs, normally measured at the seamline.; Read: Add and check darts →
Dart leg: Either of the two lines that are brought together when a dart is sewn.; Read: Add and check darts →
Dart point: The pattern endpoint of a dart, aimed toward but usually stopping before the body apex.; Read: Add and check darts →
Design ease: Extra garment room or volume added to create the intended silhouette rather than basic movement.; Read: Seam allowance is not ease →
Digitize: Also: digital tracing; To turn a paper, scanned, or photographed pattern into editable digital geometry and instructions.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Directionality: Also: one-way requirement; A fabric, print, or design property that requires pieces to face a particular direction.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Double-ended dart: Also: fish-eye dart; A dart with a point at each end, often used for shaping through the waist of a bodice or dress.; Read: Add and check darts →
Draft: To construct a new pattern from measurements and geometric instructions.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Drape: The way fabric hangs, or the act of shaping fabric directly on a body or form.
Draping: A patternmaking method that develops shape directly in fabric on a dress form or body.

E

Ease: The difference between a body measurement and the corresponding finished garment measurement.; Read: Seam allowance is not ease →
Ease stitch: Stitching used to control a slightly longer edge into a shorter one without visible gathers.; Read: Define and match seams →
Extended shoulder: A shoulder line intentionally lengthened beyond the wearer's natural shoulder point.

F

Facing: A pattern piece that finishes and supports a garment edge from the inside.
Fashion block: A reusable foundation that already carries a chosen silhouette or style direction.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Final pattern: Also: production-ready pattern; The complete, checked pattern used for cutting, with the required markings and allowance decisions.; Read: Production and export readiness →
Fit: How a garment's size, shape, balance, movement, comfort, and appearance relate to the wearer and design.; Read: Common pattern digitizing misconceptions →
Fitting ease: Also: wearing ease; Room included for ordinary movement and comfort.; Read: Seam allowance is not ease →
Flat pattern: Also: flat-pattern method; Pattern development done on paper or digitally by changing a block or existing pattern.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Fold line: A line showing where fabric or a pattern folds; it may also identify a true place-on-fold edge.; Read: Mark a true cut-on-fold piece →
Fullness: Extra material added for flare, gathers, pleats, drape, movement, or volume.

G

Garment measurement: A measurement taken on a sewn garment using a stated position and procedure.
Gather: To draw a longer fabric edge into a shorter length, creating many controlled small folds.
Girth: A circumference measurement around a body or garment.
Godet: A wedge-shaped or curved insert that adds flare or volume.
Grade: Also: pattern grade; To create additional pattern sizes with planned point movements, not uniform image scaling.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Grade distribution: How the total change between sizes is divided among pattern areas and points.
Grade guide: The planned measurement changes that a grading system is intended to achieve between sizes.
Grade point: A pattern point assigned a controlled movement during grading.
Grade rule: The recorded amount and direction that one grade point moves between sizes.
Grade-rule table: Also: grade rule table; An organized set of grade rules for the points and sizes in a pattern.
Graded nest: Also: size nest; Several pattern sizes shown together as overlaid outlines.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Grain: The directional structure of a fabric.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Grainline: Also: straight-of-grain line; A mark showing how a pattern piece should align with the fabric grain.; Read: Place and verify a grainline →
Grown-on sleeve: Also: kimono sleeve, dolman sleeve; A sleeve formed as part of the bodice rather than attached around a separate armhole seam.
Gusset: An inserted piece that adds room, shaping, or movement at an intersection such as an underarm or crotch.

H

Half-scale pattern: A pattern made with each linear dimension reduced to half of full size.
Hem allowance: Extra material beyond a finished hemline for turning, facing, binding, or another hem finish.; Read: Seam allowance is not ease →
Hip depth: The vertical distance from the waist level to the full-hip level.
Horizontal balance line (HBL): Also: HBL; A horizontal fitting reference used to see whether a toile hangs level.

I

Interfacing: Supporting material applied inside selected garment areas such as collars, facings, waistbands, or openings.
Interlock: A stable double-knit fabric with stretch and more body than many lightweight jerseys.
Internal line: Also: construction line; A construction or reference line drawn inside a pattern piece rather than on its outer boundary.; Read: Pattern anatomy and required information →

K

Kimono sleeve: Also: grown-on sleeve; A grown-on sleeve cut as part of the bodice, often with a continuous shoulder-to-sleeve line.
Knit block: A foundation pattern developed for a defined knit or stretch behavior rather than a non-stretch woven fabric.

L

Lay: The arrangement and layering of fabric for cutting, or the plan used to place the pieces.; Read: Production and export readiness →
Lengthwise grain: Also: warp direction; The woven direction parallel to the selvedge, usually the more stable straight-grain direction.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Line of balance: Also: balance line; A reference line used to judge how a garment hangs and aligns on the body.
Lining: An inner garment layer added for finish, comfort, opacity, support, or easier dressing.; Read: Pattern anatomy and required information →

M

Marker: Also: marker plan; A cutting layout that arranges every required pattern piece within a fabric width.; Read: Production and export readiness →
Master pattern: Also: master; The approved base-size pattern kept as the trusted source for one finished design.; Read: A safe pattern development workflow →
Mock-up: Also: toile, muslin; A test construction used to check shape, fit, or assembly before making the final item.; Read: A safe pattern development workflow →
Muslin: Also: toile, mock-up; A test garment made to evaluate a pattern; many regions call the same idea a toile.; Read: A safe pattern development workflow →

N

Nap: Also: pile direction; A raised or directional fabric surface that makes piece orientation important.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Negative ease: A finished garment measurement that is smaller than the related body measurement, usually relying on stretch.; Read: Seam allowance is not ease →
Nested sizes: Also: size nest; Multiple size outlines displayed together for comparison or use.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Net or nett pattern: Also: net pattern, nett pattern; A pattern drawn to the seamline without seam allowance included.; Read: Choose sewing line or cutting line →
Notch: Also: match notch; A small edge mark used to align related construction locations.; Read: Add notches and balance marks →

O

One-way design: Also: directional design; A print, pile, shading, or construction feature that requires pieces to face a consistent direction.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Open path: Also: open outline; A digital line whose two ends do not connect.; Read: Digital geometry and path health →
Opening: A planned access area for dressing or movement, such as a zipper opening, placket, vent, or slit.; Read: Pattern anatomy and required information →
Overlap: The part of a closure or pattern section designed to lie over another part.

P

Path Health: Also: Shape check; PatternForge's shape review for likely gaps, crossings, spikes, tiny segments, or excess points.; Read: Adjust Shape and use Shape check →
Pattern: The complete set of shapes and instructions used to cut and construct a sewn item.; Read: What a pattern piece really contains →
Pattern alteration: Also: alteration; A pattern change made for fit, body variation, preference, or a design correction.; Read: A safe pattern development workflow →
Pattern grading: Also: grading; The planned creation of a size range from an approved base pattern using controlled point movements.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Pattern measurement: A dimension taken from pattern geometry, usually along the intended seamline with construction features handled correctly.; Read: Select, Pan, Construction Line, Measure, and Advanced tools →
Pattern piece: One component shape, with its own cutting and construction information, within a complete pattern.; Read: What a pattern piece really contains →
Pivot method: A pattern-change method that rotates a piece around a fixed point while selected sections are traced or moved.
Placket: A finished opening structure that supports buttons, snaps, a zipper, or another fastener.
Pleat: A controlled fabric fold defined by its placement, direction, and depth.
Point of measure (POM): Also: POM; A named garment location with a precise, repeatable measuring procedure.
Princess seam: A long fitted seam, often passing through or near the bust, that carries shaping through panels.
Production pattern: A final pattern prepared with complete cutting, construction, and identification information.; Read: Production and export readiness →

R

Raglan sleeve: A sleeve that extends to the neckline and replaces the usual shoulder-and-armhole seam arrangement.
Recovery: A material's ability to return toward its original size after being stretched.
Revision: Also: version revision; An identified, dated change to an approved pattern or specification.; Read: A safe pattern development workflow →
Rise: A trouser measurement or seam relationship running from the waist through the crotch; the exact method must be stated.
Roll line: The line along which a collar or lapel is intended to fold or roll.

S

Seam allowance: Also: SA; The material between the sewing line and the cut edge.; Read: Add and verify seam allowance →
Seamline: Also: seam line, sewing line, stitching line; The intended stitching line where pattern pieces join.; Read: Choose sewing line or cutting line →
Selvedge: Also: selvage; The finished lengthwise edge of woven fabric.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Set: How a garment hangs and lies on the body for its intended style and material.
Slash and overlap: Also: slash-and-overlap; A pattern-change method that overlaps cut or split sections to remove length, width, or volume.
Slash and spread: Also: slash-and-spread; A pattern-change method that opens cut or split sections to add length, width, shaping, or fullness.
Sloper: Also: basic pattern, block; A basic fitting or pattern-development foundation; usage overlaps with the word block.; Read: Digitizing is not drafting in CAD →
Spec sheet: Also: specification sheet; A document that records garment measurements, measuring methods, tolerances, construction details, and revision information.; Read: Production and export readiness →
Spread: The amount opened between pattern sections during slash-and-spread or grading.
Stretch factor: A value describing how far a material extends in a stated direction and test; it does not describe recovery by itself.
Style line: A visible seam or division used to shape or organize a garment design.; Read: Pattern anatomy and required information →
Suppression: The amount removed through darts or fitted seams to shape flat fabric around the body.; Read: Add and check darts →

T

Technical flat: Also: flat sketch; A clear, proportionate line drawing that communicates garment design and construction details.; Read: Build instructions and diagrams →
Toile: Also: muslin, mock-up; A test garment made to evaluate pattern shape, fit, and assembly before final fabric is cut.; Read: A safe pattern development workflow →
Tolerance: An allowed amount of variation from a stated target; the relevant context and units must be clear.; Read: Define and match seams →
Tracing: Also: pattern tracing; Copying a pattern boundary and its markings by hand or with digital tools.; Read: Trace a pattern piece →
True or truing: Also: true, truing; To correct connected lines, corners, darts, and seams so they form clean, sewable relationships.; Read: Define and match seams →
Tuck: A narrow stitched fold used for decoration, shaping, or controlling fullness.
Turn of cloth: The extra distance used when fabric folds around its own thickness or other layers.

U

Underlap: The part of a closure designed to sit beneath the overlapping section.
Understitching: Stitching a facing or lining seam allowance to the inside layer so the finished edge rolls cleanly inward.

V

Vertical balance line: Also: VBL; A vertical fitting reference used to judge grain direction and alignment on a toile.

W

Waistband: A separate or built-in section that finishes and supports a garment waist.
Walk a seam: Also: seam walking, walk seams; To compare two seamlines progressively from a shared matching point rather than comparing only totals.; Read: Define and match seams →
Warp: Also: lengthwise yarn; The lengthwise yarn direction in woven fabric, normally parallel to the selvedge.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Wearing ease: Also: fitting ease; Room included in a garment for ordinary comfort and movement.; Read: Seam allowance is not ease →
Weft: Also: crosswise yarn; The crosswise yarn direction in woven fabric.; Read: Grainline and fabric direction →
Working pattern: Also: working copy; An editable copy used for experiments and changes while the trusted source is preserved.; Read: A safe pattern development workflow →

X

X/Y axes: Also: Cartesian axes; The horizontal and vertical coordinate directions used to describe point movement in many grading systems.

Y

Yoke: A supporting or design section joined to another garment section, often at a shoulder, upper back, waist, or hip.

Z

Zero point (0,0): Also: origin; The coordinate origin from which recorded grading movements are interpreted.
Zipper extension: Extra pattern area needed to install and finish a zipper opening.